From: [b--e] at [frame.com] (Bret Elliott)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: Re: M1 Garand/M1 Carbine
Date: 4 Jan 1994 23:52:27 -0500

I don't know anything about the M1 carbine, but here is some info 
on the Garand that was sent to me by Bart Bobbit, thanks Bart.

Good Luck,

Bret
...................................................................
: What should I look for when inspecting an M1?

I'd first make sure its receiver is not a reweld.  Check about
mid-point in the receiver.  If there looks like a discoloration all the
way around the receiver's middle section, it's probably a reweld and
may not be safe.

Run a couple of cleaning patches through the bore to remove any pit or
corrosion hiding oil or grease.  Then check the bore from the breech

with a dentist's mirror.  It should look nice and shiny.  The rifling
should be well defined at the throat and appear to be the same height
throughout the barrel.  There should be no ding marks at the muzzle
end.

Verify the safety can be easily engaged and that it works.

Using a primed case (no bullet or powder), load it, but keep the bolt
out of battery such that the locking lugs are just barely engaged in
their receiver recesses.  Wedge a small peice of soft metal between the
right-hand lug and the receiver, then pull the trigger.  The firing pin
must not drive forward and pop the primer.  This checks the safety
bridge's ability to hold back the firing pin unless the bolt is
closed.  Although not as good as using the right gage, it's a better
test than none at all.

With a clip full of new, empty cases, press it into the rifle gently.
Just as the full clip reaches full insertion, the bolt catch should
release, then let the bolt go forward and start to pick up the top
round.  Again, this tests the timing reasonably well, but not as good
as a timing block.  If the bolt releases before the clip is all the way
in, the rifle is out of time and won't function properly.  Don't use
resized cases as they are larger in diameter than new ones and that
increase in dimension will give false timing information.  The full
clip shouldn't be more than about one-sixteenth of an inch from full in
before the bolt releases.

Raise the rear sight all the way.  Gently push the aperture left and
right.  If there's any visible movement, the rear sight parts fit is
too loose and decent accuracy will only be a dream.  Press down on the
aperture; if it goes down with only moderate pressure, the sight isn't
tightened up properly; this can be fixed by tightening up the screw in
the windage knob.

Inspect the gas cylinder rear ring that goes around the barrel.  If it
touches the barrel, that means more accuracy problems.  Also check the
gas cylinder for tightness on the barrel.  There should not be any
looseness; if there is, you may be able to correct this by tightening
the gas cylinder lock screw.

Check both handguards for being tight.  The size of the groups the
rifle will shoot is directly porportional to how loose the handguards
are; more loose means bigger groups.  The operating rod should not
touch any part of the lower hand guard.

Grasp the rifle just behind the stock ferrule, then press the barrel
group down onto the stock, finally release it.  The barrel group should
spring back up to where the lip on the stock ferrule stops against the
lower band preventing the barrel group from going up any further.

Unlock the trigger guard noting how much pressure is needed.  If the
trigger guard opens fairly easy, either the firing pin spring is way
too weak or the trigger guard's two locking lugs are worn too flat.
This means the receiver isn't clamped hard enough in the stock and
accuracy will suffer.  You should have to use quite a bit of force to
snap the guard back into place if the guard's locking lugs are in good
condition.

Inspect the operating rod for proper fit.  It must not touch either
side of the stock ferrule when the bolt is closed.  The op-rod handle
should be forced up with the bolt closed, test it by pressing down on
the handle then releasing it; if the rod rotates back up fully, then
it's probably fit properly.

Remove the operating rod and check its piston for rust or corrosion.
If the piston isn't clean and free of pits, especially around the edge
of the piston, that usually means very little or no corrosive ammo has
been fired in it.

With the operating rod out, check its sides for wear; especially at the
place where it fits between the stock ferrule sides.  If it shows shiny
wear points, it is bent somewhat and will probably bend more with use.
There should be one or two V-shaped wear points at its bottom where it
enters the gas cylinder; if not, that's another indication that it's
bent at the front end.

Inspect the stock for splits.  With the stock upside down, try to
spread it with your hands on either side of the big hole at its
bottom.  Look for a split starting at the front of that hole going
forward.  Also check at the area behind where the trigger guard goes.
Check the top of the stock under where the receiver's rear hump fits.
And finally check on the inside where the recoil lugs fit on both
sides.

Check the stock for oil or grease impregnating the wood around the
receiver.  If you can, use a pocket knife blade to barely scrape away
the finish where the receiver mates with the wood; especially on the
recoil lug and top contact areas.  If it appears that oil/grease has
penetrated the wood, it probably has and that weakens the stock.