From: [l--ge--s] at [delphi.com] (Christopher J. Leger)
Newsgroups: alt.fan.rush-limbaugh,alt.fan.dan-quayle,talk.politics.guns,
Subject: Re: Crime Bill Q&A
Date: 26 Sep 1994 10:41:20 GMT

Picture this:

My acceptable tolerance is plus or minus 1/128".

A rectangular jig is machined having dimensions 3/8" x 1 1/32". This jig 
is fixed to a work-bench. Four peices of 1/8" plate are cut, having 
dimensions (2) 3/8" x 1" and (2) 1 1/32" x 1". These are arranged around
the jig and welded together. This assembly is laid on the table, an cut
accross its longest side at an angle of 10 degress, beginning at one
corner of the box.  This is the magazine guide. A cylindrical receiver is 
machined out of bar stock. Lets make the OD of the cylinder 1.5", and the
length 12". Into this receiver is milled a cylindrical recess having an ID 
of 1" and a depth of 11.5". A rectangular opening is milled into the side 
of the cylinder one inch from the leading edge of the cylinder with the 
recess in it. The dimensions of this opening are 7/16" x 1 3/32 ". To this
is welded the magazine guide. A second opening is machined further down 
the receiver 1/2" from the first one. Its dimensions are 3" x 9/64". 
Mid-way ( 1 1/2" ) down this opening, a 1/16" ID hole is drilled 
perpendicular to the length of the cylinder, at a depth from the side of 
the cylinder of 1/4". A trigger is fashioned out of a peice of 1/8" plate
that is 2 3/4" x 1/2" with a hook on one end, like this:


___________________________________________|\
                      o                      \
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And pinned into the slot with the hook toward the opening in the receiver, 
pointed inward. A third opening is milled on the side of the receiver, 180
degrees from the other two, 1" x 2".
A cylindrical bolt is milled having OD 31/32" and length 3". On the side 
of the cylinder is milled a recess 1.5"L x 3/8"W x 7/64"D, beginning at the
leading edge of the cylinder. An extractor is cut from 1/8" plate having 
length and width 1/32" less than that of the aforementioed recess. A slot
is cut in the end to accomodate the rim of a .380 cartidge. (Please don't
make me measure this for you.) This is placed in the recess in the bolt
and welded in place for the first 1/4" at the end opposite the slot such 
that the slot extends beyond the face of the bolt such that it will engage
the .380 cartridge. The cartridge itself can be used as a jig. A slot is 
cut in the opposite side of the bolt, 25/64" wide x 3/8" deep, the full 
length of the bolt. A wedge shaped static firing pin is welded up on the 
face of the bolt in its center, looking like this:


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     |                  --------------------|
     |                                      |_
     |                                       /
     |--------------------------------------|     
     |______________________________________|

An operating handle is fahioned by brazing a .380 case to the top of the 
bolt to the left of the extractor.
An ejector cut is made just to the left of the firing pin.1/8" w x 5/8" 
deep.A barrel is made... oh, I'm getting tired. It's a .380 barrel, o.k.?
About 3"long x 1" thick. Unrifled, .356" ID, chamber cut, etc. Threaded 
into end of receiver. A blade type ejector is welded in place behind the 
magazine well, made of fairly soft steel 1/8" thick by 5/8"high. A recoil 
spring is fashoined such that the gun will function. Assemble the peice of
shit. Push up on the front of the trigger and retract the bolt. What you 
have is a blow-back, slam-fire .380 machine gun that fires from an open 
bolt. Insert a loaded FN/Browning M1910 magazine (the only one I had handy
for measurement,) push up on the back of the trigger, and go to jail.

How long do you think this would take? I figure this gun would have about 
13 parts.I'm not asking how long it would take if YOU made it. I mean a 
person of average intelligence.


Chris Leger

P.S. 

If it doesn't work reliably the first time, I have another eight hours to
tune it. And another eight after that. And so on. And if that doesn't work, 
I'll just try it again. I did this off the top of my head. The principles 
are sound, with the possible exception of the firing pin, and I'm not a 
gunsmith. With more time, I'll fix that one too. You're more stupid than 
you seem if you don't think there aren't thousands of people out there who 
could rattle off a simpler and better design. 


P.S.S.

If I were you I'd get the difference between tap & die and tool & die 
straight before I started calling other people idiots, asshole.